Today I'm going to visit Skomer Island, where you're supposed to be able to watch puffins. Before the trip, a lot of people had robbed me of my illusions and said: "Oh Lena, you'll have to keep your eyes open to see any puffins at all, so make sure you take binoculars with you." 
I didn't bring any. Let's see. 

Yesterday evening I received another reminder email for the trip, telling me to be there a whole hour in advance. The jetty is not far from the campsite and I can easily walk there through the gate I found on the first day by turning left. Despite the impending walk, I can start the day comfortably today, as it's only about 15 minutes to get there - so I've picked the ideal campsite. The boat doesn't leave until 11.30 a.m., which gives me enough time to pack my rucksack, have a leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers and then set off.

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I quickly reach Martin's Haven, where the boat departs for Skomer Island. There I register at the small lodge. As I enter, I hear soft, almost magical music. It could have been described as elevator music, but to me it seems as if there is a sparkle in the air. I am relaxed and full of anticipation. In addition to my ticket, I buy a black tea and a small guide to the island for just over 4 pounds. I walk back down towards the landing stage and have a leisurely cup of tea until we finally set off. There are an estimated 25 to 30 other people on the boat next to me. I watch them. Two younger guys about my age seem to be German, because I pick up a few words. But we don't talk and I'd rather have my peace and quiet. Then there are a few ... probably British? They are dressed in the camouflage clothing of real nature photographers and carry huge lenses around with them. But they speak so indistinctly that I can't understand a thing.

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There are also some fabric softener tourists on board again (because they smell like fabric softener haha) and pretty flip-flop wearers who have obviously only come for a few cool cell phone snapshots but never really feel the real nature. I ignore all my fellow passengers and instead try to listen to the man who is making an announcement with stories about Skomer Island. He's old and has a pleasant British face, but I only understand the words that make it through the loud engine noise and poor speakers. And just as he's talking about how a puffin had told him a secret - which one, I can't hear - we see the first puffins sitting, swimming and flying in the water, in the air and on the cliffs off the steep rocky coast. We moor up and everyone immediately starts taking photos. The puffins are smaller than expected, but it is incredibly beautiful to see them.

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I really didn't think there would be so many - and I've only just arrived! I decide to take the largest circular walk. It goes all the way around the island and through all kinds of habitats for different bird species. It took three hours. Overall, it's more of a walk than a hike, but I really enjoy it. Every single cliff amazes me. At one point I can even see seals swimming in the water. There are four or five places in total where you can admire countless puffins. The most beautiful one is in a kind of bay and there are so many animals here that you don't know where to look. Many other bird species join in the concert of the puffins, creating an incredible soundscape. The birds almost waddle over my shoes with their cute little paws. I take countless photos and would prefer not to stop. At the same time, I also enjoy watching them bringing fish ashore, squabbling with each other, yawning, sitting in their holes or digging new ones. It had never in my life taken me three hours to get there.

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At the end, I still have a whole hour to spare. The time is limited - each visitor is only allowed to stay for five hours in order to keep the crowds to a minimum and protect the animals. In any case, I still have a lot of time left, even though I've taken lots of pictures and taken plenty of breaks. I find a spot on a rock, sit down and enjoy the view for quite a while before arriving at the landing stage more than in time. There I have time to watch the puffins again and then it's time to head back. The old man is standing there again, talking through the indistinct microphone and the much too quiet loudspeakers, but I'm not sure if it's really the same man as this morning. It is only when we arrive that I can understand him because the microphone has failed and his voice is no longer so distorted. He talks about how proud he is of the work of the nature conservation association here (to which he logically also belongs) and about the magnificent state the island is in today. He then points out that we should all go back to the lodge to buy souvenirs and donate money. I had planned to do that anyway.

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"I'm Jom and I wish you a lovely day. Bye!" With these words, he raises his arms and turns away. We clap and leave the boat. In the souvenir store, I buy a key ring, a bag, a magnet, a painted stone and a postcard and then make my way home. I sit down for a while, then take a shower, cook myself something and pack a little for tomorrow's onward journey, which I am still planning - because the next destination is not yet 100% certain. Then I fall into bed tired...